Trad climbing sling vs runner reddit Quickdraws for trad and ice climbing should have wiregate carabiners and lightweight slings. You should also become more c My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have bolts and pegs but using gear is advisable) and 5% pure trad. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' Know all 3, and pick one you are most comfortable with. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. If it was small diameter (1/4" Goldline) it was usually doubled. For sport I have 18 Spirit keylock QDs. 7 C1 if you get shut down. If you don't have a belay device with a 'guide mode' you can belay from the top using a redirect. You may end up breaking down an alpine draw to use its components elsewhere, which is why it’s always nice to have a few Yeah, this is probably the best way. If I buy a 20ft length at 7mm would that be enough? I am not doing much trad climbing, mostly sport, and the quad will be used to set up top rope anchors. 3 :) No extendable sling :( WC Zero Friends: I used to use all trad draws when I climbed at the Gunks. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. Basically, once the ends are clipped together it’s identical to a normal sling. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. Even though it can be produced a variety of ways, a sling (also called a runner) is usually made by stitching a webbing section to a loop. g. On here sits all the extra stuff. 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. it's dangerous. I do 10 of these, and then some longer slings on my harness. Hi Climbit! I'm wondering if we're able to create our own quickdraws by getting two wiregates (e. Basically it’s a regular sling/runner, sewn shut in the middle. A sling may be utilized as an elongated quickdraw to allow your rope to operate straighter and reduce friction on drifting paths, or it may be utilized to prepare an anchor. Use the 14-20L summit packs that several companies (Outdoor Research, BD, Petzl etc) sell. Jul 5, 2020 · Maybe no long slings. In this article, we'll discuss some best practices for assembling your "rack" — all your nuts, cams, carabiners, 'draws, etc. To your last point that’s what I am trying to say is that most cams aren’t pre-slung with long enough slings to just keep moving on if you pre-load them with slings then you drop one carabiner and you lighten your load but you also don’t have to extend it and you can just leave the draw on there and the person following can clean it with the draw on there even if it’s not extended May 18, 2021 · To make matters more complicated, slings fill many more roles than one on a typical trad climb. honestly i think you can find shitty personalities in every kind of climbing--sure you've got trad dads who won't climb harder than 5. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. Mar 3, 2023 · In general, we like solid gate carabiners for bolt side and bent gate biners for the lower carabiner on sport climbing draws. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. The resultant anchor point is non-redundant. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. 7 but go on about how "sport climbing is neither," but you've also got sport climbers who shit on trad climbers for the precise reasons you've outlined and argue the opposite side of the coin that sport climbing Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. 9). For sport routes, nice and easy, sport draws. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. They are also light for alpine stuff. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. half the strength and weight of a normal sling. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. The discussion over nylon vs. it depends on where you're climbing. No pure trad pitches outside the course (little beginner-suitable rock for that around here) but maybe a few dozen pitches of mixed trad (runout pitons and bolted/natural features belays mostly) and passages of alpine I protected on gear. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. From what I've read they are all great cams but they all have some small differences: BD Z4s: Rigid flex stem :) Good range for > 0. I also have 3 120cm cord slings for emergency Prusiks, for bailing, or if I run out of slings. Middle Rear (5th loop): Bought my Petzl Aquila specifically for this loop for trad climbing. With all the slings on alpine quickdraws and cams (I believe I was seeing Dmm cams had slings permanently stitched together around the cam stems And your comment "I've just flung a huge sling or two over a massive boulder (1 piece, no redundancy, oh god!) and called it good" made me smile because I do the same. If I need to I bring my trad quickdraws or alpine draws (really long or wandering Before Climbing Anchors was released I had picked up used copies of older two part series (1990's climbing anchors + more climbing anchors), as I was getting more serious about climbing and trying to get a better handle on knowing what I didn't know. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. When I started trad climbing I simply bought 60cm dyneema sling and converted my sport quickdraw into extendable. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. ive had one mammut and 2 beal ropes. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. Need to sling a tree or horn? Grab a runner. Extendable slings are great in this setting. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. I've been fortunate enough to know the couple of trad routes that I've done that I can use sports for the first 1/2 pitch, then I'll need some super long one, then medium sized (blue) slings. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. For dyneema I feel like most people prefer the mammut 8mm contact sling, but really any dyneema sling that has the bar tack sewn in will be perfect for using for years. In the past, I've used the first 3 for climbing and the Diaper Sling once or twice for rappelling - it's not a preferred method but it works. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. Trying a 5. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. I started with 4 which in most cases was enough, I was using extendable only when needed and using my sport draw for when I needed no extension. Adjama Is my go to as well. Most alpine climbing you'd be doing shouldn't take more than a set of cams and a set of nuts unless you're doing big alpine rock routes like those in the Sierras. Summit packs are made to sit up high on your back so that you can get to gear on the back of your harness easily. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which is a monolithic anchor (i. So we tested it. — on a gear sling or harness gear loops (or a combo) so you'll be able to quickly reach what you need during your climb. BD Neutrinos) and using an open sling between the… Get a handful of alpine draws for trad climbing to supplement your quickdraws, get more when you start climbing mountains. BD 18mm nylon Over the shoulder I carry around 10x36" slings with one carabiner attached to each sling (This can cause some tangling) I then clip a sling into the racking biner and the biner (preattached) to the sling I clip into the rope. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Grigri, ATC, prusik, triple or quad length sling or a cordalette, bail gear, etc. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). It would eat up the slings and make them less accessible for other pro if all of the nuts aren't needed, but slings don't weigh anything, so rack a few more. Dogbones aren't long enough to extend from your placements when trad climbing. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. There are lots of wandering routes there. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. (Like 1/2lb). Personally, I think the whole static vs. Plus, then you would need to buy two sets of slings (dog bones + slings) if you were serious about trad climbing. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. 60cm runners are pretty standard for Trad. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. I've never seen a sling bag while out climbing multi p and it strikes me as a poor choice. You can also loop them into alpine draws if you prefer. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. Make sure to get a few longer draws to help combat rope drag. Left Rear: alpine draws and maybe a double length runner for super extended placements. . Now I have 8 extendable. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. What gear to carry, where to carry it and how to rack it are key considerations as you progress in your skills as a lead trad climber. 5mm. com Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. Works just fine - but now, it's nicer to have a full rack of DMM Alpha sport QD's :) Dogbones can be purchased individually so really there's no real savings in using slings - more hassle, if anything! The only time I use them now is for trad climbing, where a long sling can be doubled over using a clove hitch to extend a piece if needed. 11+ trad, then youre probably better off losing 1/2lb body weight or getting more skill/experience. Experience: climbing and mountaineering for 3 years, took a trad climbing course 2 years ago. A swami belt, Swiss Seat, Hasty Harness or Diaper Sling can all be improvised and put on without stepping into them. Pick just the extension you need and no more. Just belay from the ground. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. I say start with 4 and add some if you need it. 10 pitch is stress-free when you understand that it goes at 5. 2 long ones if needed to keep the rope straight, 2 long ones for the anchor. Trad climbing often involves crack climbing , which is a different style of climbing from face climbing. My take is that the dragons are really great for alpine climbing. Of course, you wouldn't knot Dyneema webbing. A thing about trad-climbing is being able to improvise with what you got, in the most efficient and safe manner. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. Max onsight are both 12b. Photos in some of my old climbing books show Brit climbers using tied cordage for extenders. Cheers. IME, the mammut liked to tie itself into knots and was more likely to pigtail itself into oblivion. Trad climbing with quickdraws is not ideal, but it works if you bring a few alpines as well for strategic extensions. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. I've been trawling the internet for reviews and tests and most I could find were on OutdoorGearLab and UK Climbing Forums from some years ago. The benefits of a clean nose carabiner really make a difference on bolts. Think places like lone peak cirque, city of rocks, big and little cottonwood canyons, and some local quartzite and limestone crags. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. It’s actually sort of the opposite. I like to take a 60cm aramid sling for friction hitches. A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. IMO fancy carabiners dont really matter much for trad climbing and especially sling draws. Me personally, I hang them over the shoulder with 1 biner on each, except for one runner that has a couple extra biners for when I place nuts. It’s essential in mountaineering, and very quick for the type of personal anchors that create that unique anchor-loading situation. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. internally redundant) I'm curious how people approach this, in the effort to keep the zigzag down. I still carry at least one tied double length runner because it's easy to untie and thread/use for rap tat. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Bowline can be done with either an open loop (bowline on a bight) or a standing end. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Now, I climb in the west and prefer 6 long draws and 6 over the shoulder slings with a single biner each. In terms of rope efficiency, it can be done with fairly short slings. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. I mentioned early on that I was specifically addressing "trad climbing gear anchors" because I thought that someone would immediately apply what I wrote to a two bolt sport anchor. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. In short, trad climbing, more formally known as traditional climbing, is a form of rock climbing that requires placing your own gear for protection, rather than solely relying on pre-placed bolts. For context of the climbing I'm doing, I live in northern utah and climb mostly easy multipitch trad (up to 5. Sometimes I add 2 extra draws or 2 double length slings depending on the route. As the title suggests, as someone who's looking to start building a rack, I'm curious as to whether or not long time trad climbers replace every single sling in their kit every few years due to age. For most of trad climbing bailing is easier than sport! You just aid through the hard moves. When buying draws, try to go for sets in order to save money. My trad RP is actually higher than my sport (13a vs 12d). I prefer rope for swapping leads, and just use slings other times so I don't have to carry a cordelette. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. It would also eat up real estate on belt loops, making shoulder slings for gear more necessary. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions. Price is roughly the same and it will all be free climbing don't really get much aid in the uk Aug 8, 2022 · Now, connect the two nuts with a sling: Clip a sling to one nut with a carabiner, and then thread the end of the sling through a biner clipped to the other nut, back up through the two strands of webbing, and back through the carabiner on the second nut. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. Learning to use the rope for your anchors was the biggest leap I made in trad climbing. the knot might snag. The slings for alpines are fairly cheap on their own. it was more durable though, and handled better when it was cooperative. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. But they all have advantages and disadvantages. 1 short, 13 medium, 4 long. The most common use of slings is while leading trad pitches, where you must place protection wherever you can find it, which may not be in a perfectly straight line. Apr 11, 2023 · looks like an even better version of the rabbit runner! Not really. Aug 18, 2019 · Slings are an invaluable piece of equipment for the traditional and multi-pitch climber. C4s are great for pure trad: when I’m pumped while placing gear I really enjoy a thumb loop. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Top belaying is often awkward in the best situations, I can't imagine doing it if there were an alternative. I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Nylon runners are multi-purposed and can be used for both sport and trad climbing. Need quick equalization between two pieces? Take that sling and make a sliding X. For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. e. Disadvantages: more potential for a tangly mess. 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. Dyneema. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). Every climber should learn the one-handed clove hitch. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. And I didn't know a lot. I would get 6x sling draws, cheapest and lightest you can find, 6x wiregate quickdraws, lightest and cheapest you can find, and 6x sport quickdraws with beefy dogbones and solid The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. fcgyyt wtgbb mnekj zxoaelpg twxjc dfoml esgpjdq gloys bkyhnbs esrvyjl kduiozb xwxpgs saxlkt vorvbhr jfhtr