Open hand vs half crimp vs full crimp. Your fingers don't have the same engagement in the rung.

Open hand vs half crimp vs full crimp In my right dominant hand on tiny… This is called full crimping! It exponentially increases the force on your fingers, meaning you can pull a lot harder. 但是 Full Crimp 是最费力，而且对关节压力最大的一种抓法，在刚开始攀岩的时候不要专门练习，避免受伤。 Full Crimp、Half Crimp 和 Open Hand 对比： 对岩点的抓握力： Full Crimp>Half Crimp>Open hand. Then I started doing half crimp hangboarding. I recently did a cycle of only half crimp training, both 10mm and 25mm. As a result I would only full crimp if I really had to and otherwise try to pinch a lot of stuff or just open hand it. Depelop my open handed/half crimp strength. It really depends how long your pinky fingers are. Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? May 30, 2007 · Another consideration is that the half-crimp is a more active grip, meaning that it relies more on strength (to resist leverage) and less on friction, so in an overall sense it will get you 'stronger' than the open-hand grip. Train strictly half crimp. Also, look at the joint angles of all your fingers. If your open hand strength is that weak, open hand grips would be beneficial to train. I also only do max hangs (Crimpd 90%). In both the half crimp grip and full crimp grip, your index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky grip the rock surface, and your fingers lock at the second joint. The full crimp came naturally to me from the beginning. To perform a full-crimp, perform a half-crimp, and then wrap the thumb on top of the index finger. I’m not convinced there is a big benefit to training true half crimp vs open half. I noticed… Jan 4, 2024 · The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. ish) is plenty strong. If you can't deadhang in a half crimp without having your hand open up then take weight off with a pulley so you can stay in the position and train it. Jan 29, 2019 · I have now started to try to increase strength in a half crimp position. I reserve full crimps for anything that i simply CANNOT open crimp. However, the assertion made in the video that open hand makes it "much easier to pull up" on small holds is absolute bull. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. So why is half crimp better than full crimp? Open hand vs. If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. The most common grip is the open crimp, which you should use most often when climbing. The hand placement is the same as a full crimp. I have been climbing for close to two years (3 times a week for one year) and have always just used open hand on crimps. Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. Working on both is key. It’s best for most flat and incut edges, especially if the edges are larger, and can even be deployed on slopers and sloping edges. Crimping is commonly broken into three different grip types based on the angle of your fingers and the location of your thumbs called full, half and open crimp. In my experience, full crimp is much stronger on the small holds, but comes with that greater risk of injury. My open hand and full crimp both improved (but not as much as my half crimp did). I'm guessing yes because not having to full crimp everything could potentially mean less pumping out on sport routes (debatable bc full crimp actually feels more passive than half to me, but maybe there's some transfer to open hand), less stress on the finger joints (and faster recovery = more sessions), and more strength on holds where you can Aug 27, 2023 · Training exercises for open-hand and crimp grips. I forget which book I read but it claimed that half crimp would help train both the open hand and full crimp. U never climb like number 3. While many have become injured while full-crimping, overuse and not listening to their body are likely the causes. Mar 6, 2025 · Thus, we cannot conclude that higher skilled climbers assess their strength capacities more accurately. This grip offers good power while reducing the strain on your fingers. See full list on gripped. But training half crimp somehow made pinch projects way easier. The openness of a crimp grip refers to where our thumb is while crimping, and the angle our fingers and knuckles make while we crimp. chris r. The half-crimp will build strength for open-handing and full-crimping (to a limited degree) whereas the other grips are About Press Press I always end up with 3fd while trying to climb with open grip, because my pinky is simply to short. Jan 4, 2024 · There are three basic types: the open crimp, the full crimp, and the three-finger grip. Hence, we confirm that for deeper hold depths, using an open hand position has no force disadvantage when compared to the half-crimp. I think OP is probably better off focusing solely on half crimp, since open is coming along fine without any isolation training. Avoiding certain grips might actually lead to increased vulnerability. Same with full crimp, deadhang some full crimps for max hangs, if you can't do it with bodyweight, take some weight off. from publication: Clinical management of finger joint capsulitis/synovitis in a rock climber | This case I'll get 4 fingers on, drag the index, bump to a full crimp, move to gaston, extend to index-only whatever it takes that feels within my level of risk. You need all angles of open hand to crimp to be a full climber. Dec 14, 2016 · The lever arm is more favorable for both open hand, and semi open than for half or full crimp, so one should expect an underlying advantage for the more open grips. At the same time if I ever had to full crimp it would A) feel weak and B) feel super dodgy. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. Translates best. Therefore, this study aimed to determine how accurate climbers could assess their maximal finger flexor strength in half-crimp and open hand positions. Going to font, do the same with open handed or dragged hangboarding and some wristwrench work. If you find yourself using this grip on most holds, focus on using a half or open crimp to build up strength. Open hand (fingers are greater than 90 degrees from the palm) Half crimp (around 90 degrees, very little or no thumb recruitment) Full crimp (less than 90 degrees, possible thumb wrap for even more power) As for why full crimp is strongest, the more you close your hand, the more forearm muscle you're recruiting. In a half crimp, the index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle. half-crimp: Do climbers assume World Championships in Bern and (b) the set-up of the full-size campus board in the laboratory in Zurich. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut ledges with a recess for better finger traction. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. All three are important in climbing, and if you want to be a good climber, you shouldn't neglect any of them. For both open hand and half crimp, the A2 pulley does not redirect the tendon, so has zero force. Unlike full crimp, you can use this gripping technique regularly. Half crimp is relatively weak. Apr 13, 2025 · There are actually three different types of grips we can use when crimping: open hand grip, half crimp grip, and full crimp grip. Crimping can help for far lock offs on edges. It said that open hand would help half crimp but not full crimp. Building the robustness of the structures in our hand that the full crimp stresses takes patience, consistency, and time. Open hand is often necessary for dynamic motion and compression. I also only started doing any hanging/off wall work, as an only-boulderer, after climbing at around V10 outside and with half crimp as an actual weakness compared to open and closed/full crimp. I'm very confident that the open hand grip is less likely to rupture tendons than the "full crimp" (thumb on top). This is screaming injury ^ stick with open drag, half crimp and (thumb on) full crimp. So open hand should be better for A3 pulleys than crimping. Besides that, I would think a slow ramping up of your crimp related grips will eventually show progress. Full Crimp. The half crimp is characterised by a hyper extension of the distal joints and the full crimp grip is characterised by the addition of the thumb on the other fingers. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. 对关节的压力： Full Crimp>Half are stronger in the crimp position than the open hand position, but the crimp is linked to higher pulley forces, increasing the risk of finger injuries. But started to train 3fd recently Nov 7, 2010 · the semi-open hand or half crimp position is very strong and covers a lot of bases, check out some video of someone on a campus board to see what i mean. By leveraging your fingers into a position that squares your fingertips with a hold, the half crimp puts your hand in a position that makes even smallish edges feel quite secure. I see the same hold/move getting done with full crimp, half crimp, and even drag sometimes. finger strength in a an open grip position and boulder grade. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. 能控制的岩点大小： Full Crimp>Half Crimp>Open hand. To develop grip strength and endurance, climbers can incorporate specific training exercises tailored to both open-hand and crimp grips. We practice half crimp to let our thumbs work independently on pinches, slopers and thumb catches AND as a less injury than full crimping all the time. Never had injuries so far. So I'm used to half or full crimp almost everything. Typically training half crimp will keep this spread tight. Hey all, After been mostly an indoor climber for 6/7 years, I’ve slowly been transitioning to outdoor bouldering. Full crimping should be done sparingly, if at all. However, this is not good for your tendons and pulleys. The correlations with route grades were similar. Open hand grip is shown to reduce A2 pulley stress by 36 times in com May 1, 2024 · Full-Crimp: Many climbers see full-crimping as a tool for injury. When to Use Half crimp vs. However if you are training open half only I agree with Sean that you need to also need to train full crimp as edge sizes begin getting smaller. The half-crimp is the utility grip, which is used for most flat, sloping and in-cut edges. The main difference is that your thumb is not wrapped over your index finger but instead, remains extended. Apr 5, 2018 · training the full crimp and half crimp is fine. In an open hand crimp, the fingers will be laying flat and ergonomically. Half crimping stresses the fingers more than open crimping, but you will find that it is a much stronger grip. Keep in mind that while either grip helps increase the power of your climb, they both pose a significant risk for Jul 13, 2021 · So, when training on a hangboard, you’ll usually start by holding a static position, the “dead hang”, with different hand positions like full-crimp, half-crimp and open hand. Hence, the aim of this study was to determine how accurate climbers from different skill levels can assess their finger flexor strength in the half-crimp and open hand position. Open vs full crimp is not right vs wrong. The index, middle and ring fingers are bent at 90 degrees, the pinky may be slightly straighter and usually contours the hold, and the thumb either rests next to the index finger or pinches the side of the hold, if possible. Further, I'd recommend OP reviews the protocol. Open Hand Mar 27, 2019 · Half Crimp. I could hang 30+ kg on an 14 mm edge in the open hand position (4 fingers open). Unless you are really pulling on that project, I suggest half crimping for the majority of your crimps. Typically this means using a hangboard 1-2x/week with a slow and steady progression. Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. With a full crimp the redirection angle is 90*ish as well. Half and full crimp with the red indicating the major stress regions of each type of crimp. The open-hand crimp, also known as the half crimp, is the most widely used type of crimp grip. Methods. Mar 16, 2005 · 4. But for others with long pinkies, the degree to which they can open their hand, with and without pinky, is If a climber turns out not to be stronger in crimp than in open hand position - as they might have assumed - the open hand grip, which is easier on the pulleys, should be used whenever possible. Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. Oct 15, 2021 · The half crimp position and full crimp position are nearly identical with one key difference. If you have short pinky fingers, the difference between 4 finger open hand and 3 finger open hand is probably large. Meaning, you can open your hand a lot more by dropping the pinky. Oct 4, 2017 · What we found was a better correlation between finger strength in a half crimp position and boulder grade vs. Always try an open crimp first and focus on your foot Aug 15, 2017 · To half crimp, increase contact with the hold by bending 90 degrees at the middle knuckle. When u are going on a trip to magic with a lot small crimps, implement this into your routine. Open-hand grip training may include hanging from a bar or campus board using an open-hand position for extended periods of time. May 15, 2018 · In this video we show the three different ways you can using crimping to exert more pressure on a hold. By using your pinky, you use most of the muscles in your Sep 22, 2022 · From a biomechanics perspective, half crimp will be weaker than full crimp or drag because full crimp includes direct force from the thumb and open includes passive tension/friction over the edge. Its two different techniques. Your fingers don't have the same engagement in the rung. I assume the pinch position has a very active grip position that emulates the half crimp isometric grip. Jan 31, 2022 · HALF VS FULL CRIMPING Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. For beginners, it is recommended to do 2-3 sessions a week and do 10 sets of five hangs on a variety of holds with an open hand position. The half crimp is a more sustainable grip. . Is it normal to find this quite a bit harder than open hand? Does anyone tend to progress this further to a full crimp? For looking to start weighted deadhangs, I was thinking of varying between open hand and half crimp (after longer working on increasing half crimp strength)? Sep 27, 2024 · The issue with full crimping is that, unlike a half-crimp, the ‘fail-safe’ in your body won’t react. 37 votes, 20 comments. Full crimp. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 degrees with extension of the distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint. May 29, 2014 · fully closed crimp grip = (a) second joint (PIP) from the tip of each finger is flexed at roughly a 90 degree angle; (b) tip bone of the finger is angled significantly backward/upward relative to the second bone; (c) first joint (DIP) closest to the tip is vertically lower than the second joint (PIP) in from the tip; and (d) the thumb lies over However he did say that he trains full crimp which would train the things the true half crimp position trains. Dec 8, 2019 · In this video, we discuss the proper crimping technique for climbing injury prevention. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. A full crimp is when your fingers on the crimp hold are at a full arch with your fingertips/finger pads and your thumb clasps on top of the hold. If you climb and open crimp things other people full crimp, you do the same moves with less risk of injury. The downside to favoring the half crimp (and the full crimp) over an open-hand grip is that the crimp position puts more pressure on your pulleys and tendons. I would say, however, that I see a strict half crimp every single time I'm at the gym or at the crag. The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. OP just started hanging, and open crimp (whatever OP means, still, less than half crimp, probably 4 fingers open. For all skill levels and both sexes, slightly higher forces in open hand than in half-crimp position werefound. Would be nice to match my current full crimp strength aka 5 sec hand on toms latice or 11 sec on BM currently at 10kilos asistance for half and 20 for open. There are only a few holds I can hold with 3fd. For half crimping, the A2 has some redirection from the shear loading of the A3 pulley. Jan 4, 2024 · Half Crimp or Open-Hand Crimp. Half Crimp Open Grip GRUNDKURS BOULDERN Full Crimp Vs Half Crimp In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. Oct 29, 2020 · For climbing, this means building up our strength and resilience to the full crimp position in a methodical and controlled manner. I think experienced folk would agree you want your spread to be kind of close between open 4 open 3 and half crimp. I've since more or less equalized my half crimp and open hand strengths, my numbers are roughly 120 lbs per arm @ 140 lbs body weight. With full crimping, your thumb locks a half-crimp into place and doesn’t allow it to fail. The half crimp is a versatile and less strenuous variation of the full crimp, making it an important grip for climbers to Absolutely-- I only train half crimp because I am working on actively pulling. This fail-safe is when your half-crimp is compromised, and you fall into an open-hand grip. com Apr 13, 2025 · There are actually three different types of grips we can use when crimping: open hand grip, half crimp grip, and full crimp grip. Feb 9, 2020 · First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. vbtyg gouay iienm kvv wvxu wqnie naomnjtla rwtsv dllgd emjty