Best climbing hexes reddit Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. Posted by u/eagle_eye735 - 3 votes and 2 comments The first nuts used in climbing were literally just that; machine nuts of varying sizes slung with nylon cord. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). 1 T-share today currently pays an avg. You could only long rest in town. Cams are less likely to get unseated as you climb above them (but more likely to walk inward). Posted by u/deadphish1 - 9 votes and 35 comments Reddit's OG off-piste sub for all things backcountry skiing/splitboarding. 94K subscribers in the ClimbingCircleJerk community. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. Nov 23, 2016 · Hey Matt, if you are going up the learning curve in trad climbing, I highly recommend you buying hexes. 1m is perfect for Hexes and other nuts as well as replacing tape on double looped cams, whilst 0. Next time you have a route with a long approach that uses a double rack, take the tricams instead of the second set. I also have about 7 ice screws, mountaineering ice axes, and crampons (all from when my dad went to Alaska). I live in Asia, so no options here. Your fall may pull the belayer forward, absorbing even more of the impact. That is determined during a 1. I love using hexes at the Lake to make an all day rap anchor that won't get stolen. Trying to master my gear placement… It's kind of funny, because where I'm used to climbing in the Canadian Rockies, hexes are actually great pro for the loose blocky stuff. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. Cams are much more prone to walking but thats a price people seem willing to pay. 6. Past that, have not used except once on a devils tower Epic. My buddy and I just run around leading things in the vicinty, and just take the elevator back down. Those two, non-detachable low speed quads are the best season pass you'll ever own. (Highly, highly unlikely in the real world and especially unlikely if you are plugging hexes. I feel like I see a new post on my hobby subs every day of people who found some “vintage” cams or skis or surfboard and are hoping for some big payout. I personally trust a well placed hex over most SLCD's, there's no walking, way cheaper, way lighter, can be used as a cam in some situations and are still able to act as basically a really large nut. I did an "apprenticeship" if you will, climbing relatively short, easy routes only using hexes and wires. Maybe. you learn a lot about how the rock works, and how to find a good stance to place from. . Plenty of people use cams but don't use hexes. It took me years of climbing on gear here to figure it out but they are actually useful as fuck. 24 votes, 30 comments. Cams end to go anywhere a hex will and are easier to place and clean. 8 or 5. if you plan on doing mixed climbing in the long run, you'll probably end up wanting at least some hexes. If you already have another set of hexes, you can cut the wires and resling them with >/= 5mm cord. 90% of the time it’s junk, and they miss the fact that most gear sport people can’t buy and display their stuff (even if it was remotely cool) because we spent A rack of nuts will go a long way with practice. The back story to this post is that a friend argues that a hex could be places where a cam could. I helped friend re-sling a number of Hexes in 2019. There are other useful hexes beyond Evil Eye and Slumber - Protective Luck and Fortune come to mind - and if you’re going for a Hex splash, it’s probably worth investing into the full kit since Protective and Fortune are also extended by Cackle. I haven't met anyone who uses hexes and doesn't use cams. I have used them for some ice climbing but I don’t have much experience with ice tools and such. The home of Climbing on reddit. Certainly a good deal better than Black Diamond Hexcentrics, and far, far better than Metolius Ultralight Curved hexes. Alpine climbing is the only avenue where I bring hexes. Posted by u/Horse_Glue_Knower - 5 votes and 29 comments Hexes: Curved hexes are awesome but BD hexes are a fantastic alternative. I’m also way more likely to be climbing at my limit while cragging. Seems like a simple first project with scope to be enjoyable. This reflects a poor understanding of the forces at play in multipitch climbing. 35L version with that gear setting will be painful for your shoulder and painful to you lack of enough space. My opinions about a cam is that they are quicker to place, have much more room for a poorly judged crack width ("pretty sure its the blue hex, fuck, nope, lets try the purple, fuck that's way too big, maybe if i spin the blue one in this direction, shit my arm is tired, damn legs are shaking Consider getting some second hand wires and maybe even (gasp!) hexes before getting cams. Wrath be unleashed upon John Doe. I agree. Closed with a Double fisherman. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. For rock climbing hexes have pretty much been replaced by cams now. Might be interesting to make some funky nut or hex shapes, like extreme offsets or taper. 32 votes, 12 comments. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. What I'd get first: BD C4's . A LOT of extra non-lockers for everything. Once placed you can set them fairly hard. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. They are great to have if there are a lot of horizontals. 5 and #0. These were fiddly to place for freeclimbing and tended to lift out but could still be used for aid climbing. Maybe get a small number of cams (the most useful sizes). BD makes the holes kind of small for this. I find hexes fit much better and more securely in subtle constriction cracks and V cracks than nuts do. Mike is our patron, Honnold our saviour Posted by u/PaulDaPigeon - 5 votes and 23 comments Posted by u/HeyBrianHey - 316 votes and 52 comments Posted by u/ElPollo_Crazy - No votes and 19 comments 14 votes, 25 comments. Ranger abilities to travel faster, horses, ect could each add 1 to the daily hexes moved, or eliminate the encounter advantage for going fast, ext, based on what ability it was. 1. When I'm on the limit, I seldom reach for a hex, unless I have nothing else. Their alloy offset nuts are also incredible. They are light and good for tripling up without too much clutter. But they are all old and heavy. Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. I don't believe it. 9 (British grades don’t convert well) with a set of peenuts, set of rocks 1-10 and 5 hexes. Offset nuts: you will know when you need them, i. 5 and 5. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. lap dog named Lizzie. Mar 16, 2025 · When I want to be lighter/cheaper and might need to leave something behind, I like to have hexes (only in the bigger sizes- smaller sizes I find nuts work better). 30 votes, 15 comments. Perfect for top rope anchors. 6kn is good enough for a marginal piece of lead protection, but it is not enough for a belay anchor that can experience high forces due to high factor falls. When visiting my family in Scotland I did a 5. Very few people collect climbing gear they aren’t going to use. Previously the editor of Climbing magazine, Julie thrives on creating high-quality, inspirational stories and photos for climbers of all disciplines. Posted by u/700x23c - 233 votes and 5 comments 361 votes, 34 comments. Quite often hexes fit where camming devices won't. 77 Factor Fall. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit Stuck foam to the inside of my hexes to remove the high end clink They're not silent by any means but definitely less harsh on the ears Hex on candle glass: “John Doe John Does career John Doe John Does marriage John Doe John Does mental health John Doe John Does physical health” Hex on paper burned in flame: “Lose your job Lose your mind Unleash your anger. Plus, a 2 level dip on Daeran would mean no revelation(s) and even slower Oracle spell progression. Double length runners, maybe 2 to start. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. Before really large cams existed some people would use sawed off pieces of a 2x4 to allow smaller cams to fit in wide cracks. 82 votes, 51 comments. g. I see a lot of climbers on Reddit suggesting just carrying offsets "because they work in all the same placements". When I started trad climbing, I couldn't afford the cams, so I led exclusively on nuts, hexes, and tricams for probably 40 of my first 50 pitches on gear. you also spend a lot of time faffing about at first, going up a size, then down two sizes then back up to the first size. The Hexes have been extensively used and the knots are set solid. My recommendation: If they don't have any offset nuts, get some. Don't buy hexes. Or when climbing in different situations (e. But I don’t have much in the way of trad gear other than a set of hexes. Yes they're light, but you can place a cam in just about any good hex placement, and there are many places where hexes cannot protect but cams will. We can choose to move slow (2 hexes), or faster (4 hexes), but the encounter would then be rolled at disadvantage/advantage to compensate. Hexes: No. Small tricams Shoulder length runners, about 5 of them to start. when you start aid Aug 8, 2022 · Julie Ellison started climbing in Alabama more than a decade ago and is now living out her dream of van life with her pup, a 60-lb. I can imagine with a little experimentation you might find something that is great on your local rock type. One of us wrote a blog about it too. if you plan to only do cragging, the majority of people would suggest you save for Set of nuts (black diamond stoppers or dmm wallnuts) possibly also a couple of individual large hexes. Also, I love dmm alloy offsets and I think they're the best single piece of gear out there but they're not a replacement for regular nuts. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. 19K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. You'll need draws (standard quickdraws will do if you have em from sport climbing with spare slings to extend them if needed or alpine draws if you're buying from new) as well as slings and lockers. And yes we are scared of falling. 3-1 (black->blue) weighs less than a #0. Your rope has a max impact force rating. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. Should you fall on one of your hexes, the rope is going to strech absorbing force. Feb 20, 2021 · Heex’s are absolutely the best and only anchor needed for devils lake. The DMM ones are the best on the market right now, in my opinion. Your friends also probably have nuts. It's more useful to buy one or two cams than a fu 1. Totally agree with that. That being said, I love hex's and placing them in rocks. A set from 0. They end up being my doubles for #2, and #3 BD cams. it does mean that you get way better at eyeballing placements though. You can hammer them into icy cracks. (Nuts are the foundation on which UK trad climbing is built). 550 votes, 31 comments. it's dangerous. If this is happening to you with your Torque Nuts, then you are not setting them hard enough. I didn’t know that the route was over 30m so I ended up using my final hex as a sling for a quickdraw. ). of 7-9 HEX per day But because the yield in HEX is dynamic and not static, the daily payout will depend on staker/miner behavior Some days you could get 60 HEX per T-share payout for that day Because HEX miners also get rewarded when other miners lose their coins by breaking their promises If you pack not that heavy like for indoor climbing wall, light climbing plan, etc. 5mm Aramid cord (aka power cord in other brands). But when its easy climbing I can place a hex and save a cam for more high stress moves, or anchor building later, I typically do. 177 votes, 35 comments. without load lifters will not that difficult. Don't let DMM's marketing fool you though that those four sizes replace six sizes of conventional hexes. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. with kids or newbies), it's fun to use them to keep up the excitement level. 75m gives the correct length for single looped cams. Help your fellow Redditors crack the electrical code. 5-3 BD C3's 0-2 BD stopper set 4-13 A couple of the larger curved hexes. Tricams: this really depends on where you're climbing. When you get on hard routes, typically hex's only get placed in good resting stances or in making belay anchors unless you really like challenging yourself or are only climbing easy to moderate routes where a lot of good stances are available. 7). One of the top reviews for "The Spell Book for New Witches: Essential Spells to Change Your Life" criticizes its lack of hexes and discouragement… Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Posted by u/Entaras - 11 votes and 4 comments They are pretty decent, but in my opinion not the best hex. Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. 5mm Dyneema cord can be used for all sizes down to Hex Size 3. 75. e. But your climbing gear settings definitely need load lifters and large space. Alternatively, 5. Edit: plus in any scenario that I'm burning gear I'd rather dump my $21 BD11 Hex than a $120+ BD 4/5 Cam. This lol. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. Also hexes work much better when you are Scottish winter climbing. We used a Beal 5. Welcome to /r/Electricians Reddit's International Electrical Worker Community aka The Great Reddit Council of Electricians Talk shop, show off pictures of your work, and ask code related questions. Offset hexes were the norm when I started to climb in 1977. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 59 votes and 44 comments if you buy hexes, you'll eventually want to get cams. The slings make it easier to set both camming options on the hex.
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