Belay harness knot. This knot has other names as well, like the Italian Hitch, Mezzo Barcaiolo, Crossing Hitch, HMS, Half Clove Hitch, or the Tag Knot. In this video, Miranda shows you how to tie the knot and check your work before you Some of the knots used in climbing are similar to boating knots. Nov 9, 2023 · The mention of a bowline in climbing circles can be contentious. When tying in, I like to feed rope through the same harness straps that the belay loop occupies (not pictured), others prefer to use the belay loop (as pictured). com describes rock climbing and realted issues in the southeast united states including tennessee, alabama, north carolina, and georgia. Belaying, a crucial aspect of climbing, ensures the climber’s well-being by providing a controlled descent and protection against falls. If you're belaying off your harness, you have to escape the belay first. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. Mar 15, 2016 · *Some harnesses have the same point for tying in and belaying. Shout "on rappel" to your belaying partner below. The mule knot described below is great for when you want to relax while your partner is resting on the rope for a 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. The fastest method to tie a Figure 8 knot into the climbing harness. Make sure your rope is fed through the proper hard point (s) on the harness, usually the two points that the belay loop is attached to. We like to put things in a box and this really creates problems in both of these worlds. Oct 26, 2017 · Learn how to tie a Prusik knot, an important knot used in climbing for ascending ropes and in emergency situations. Note that his Trango B-52 is reversed! details, details! Mar 16, 2022 · One is the Munter hitch, a knot used along with a locking belay carabiner to belay or rappel. Learn how to tie the Figure 8 in this video. But I’m here to introduce you to the single bowline’s cousin, the bowline on a bight, or the BOB Learn the essential techniques and steps for belaying in rock climbing. If you do connect a tether to your belay loop, don’t leave it tied there permanently. Feb 2, 2025 · The Munter Hitch is used for controlled belaying and lowering in rescue scenarios. All knots require safeties. May 15, 2024 · First, and perhaps most important, check your harness regularly and retire it without hesitation if it shows significant wear for any reason. Rappelling Down Double-check all knots, hitches, locking carabiners and make certain everything is secure; double-check that both rope ends have a knot and that both knots are on the ground. When passing a knot on rappel, you will do the same, with the backup figure eight on a bight below the knot to pass, clipped to your harness so you only fall 2-3 feet if your prusik fails. a belay plate), you may find it useful to lock the rope off. In some situations, using the rope loop can be more comfortable - it allows you to transfer the weight of a fallen climber onto the anchor, rather than having their weight pulling on your harness. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, perform a safety check, belay with the Connecting a knot from a seat harness to the main rope and another cord set from both feet up to the main rope we can achieve a pretty efficient sit-stand system. Feb 22, 2020 · This knot can also be used to rappel in case of an emergency. Oct 1, 2020 · A double loop bowline, tied through the belay loop (or tie in points). . Feb 9, 2016 · Figure eight-knots are not directional. Any safe version of the belay escape involves the same four checkpoints: - Get hands-free - Transfer climber’s weight to anchor - Transfer climber’s belay to anchor - Remove all excess prusiks, carabiners and knots The belayer can detach from the rope completely if needed. The end result is a system which can be released under load and can be used again as a belay. This comprehensive guide will delve into the intricacies of belaying, empowering you with the knowledge and technique to safeguard your climbing partners. There are many occasions in climbing when, belaying from the harness using a device which does not self-arrest (e. This class (or previous experience and passing our belay test) is a prerequisite for top roping in our facility. There are other good knots for ‘tying in’, but the figure of eight is popular due to its clear visual symmetry, making it easier to cross-check than some of the alternatives. Finally, connect the rope to the anchor with a figure eight on a bight as a backup, leaving just enough slack to disassemble the belay, and disconnect the belay device from the system. Two redundant loops - for anyone who’s not too excited about rappelling off of a single loop of webbing, this is an elegant solution. It can also cause slight abrasion to the rope's sheath, especially if the leader falls. There are a few consequential variations in harness design: Harnesses with a single belay and tie-in point are oriented horizontally on the waist belt. You're confusing having too much slack with tying your knot far from your harness. This technique can be done quickly and efficiently so as leave your hands free for other manoeuvres. Climbing expert Teddy Bayakhmetov says it's vital to have your hands on the braking end of the rope at all times and never take your eyes off the climber. It allows for effective rope management without needing specialized belay devices, making it a crucial knot for emergency rappelling and lowering loads. Thus, in a typical modern climbing setup, one end of the rope is fixed to the harness of the climber, most often by a figure-eight knot. Equalizing Figure Eight Knot For gear that requires more equalization, try an equalized figure eight knot. Here are the tying steps and tips. In this article, we will explore some of the key knots used in mountaineering and climbing, categorized into five groups: knots for anchorages at belay stations, knots for tying into the harness, knots for securing the climber, knots for joining ropes and cords, and ascending Simple Belaying Techniques: This is a brief step-by-step guide to belaying with an ATC device in an indoor climbing environment! Mar 28, 2025 · Step-by-step guides for climbing knots: The Trace Eight, Prusik, Clove Hitch, Ring Bend, Double Fisherman's, Girth Hitch, and Figure-Eight On A Bight. How you do this depends Step 1: Form a single figure eight in the end of the rope and feed the tail through your harness. Before you can begin climbing, you have to fit the harness Uses: - Belaying without a belay device - Abseiling without a belay device - Creating a releasable knot when escaping the belay The munter hitch tends to 'kink' the rope when used for abseiling or belaying. Testing knots: Confirming that the figure-eight follow-through knot on the climber’s end and the knot attaching the belay device to the belayer’s harness are tied correctly and securely. Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. You’ll often use a Figure-8 knot here as well, but its role is slightly different—creating more secure and dynamic catch points. Follow the harness manufacturer’s specifications on where the knot is tied, typically through both tie-in points. Dec 15, 2020 · About to take the belay test at the gym but not sure where to start? Relax. But the belay loop is rated high enough and should hold the same falls. The knot that is most commonly used for tying into a harness is the Figure 8 Follow-through (or rewoven Figure 8). Get to know the 8 essential rock climbing knots. Ages 11 and up. How to pass a belay certification? Jun 20, 2022 · All belay lines must be connected dorsally to a Class 3 harness. Harnesses with two hard points are The knots you tie can secure you to your harness, aid in belaying, or create essential anchors on rock faces and ice cliffs. Set up an auto-blocking belay device on this master point, or use it as a redirect for belaying off your harness. Dec 15, 2021 · The Redirected Belay Any standard belay device can be used to belay from above by placing a redirect on the climbing anchor. Rock climbing wouldn’t exist if it weren’t for climbing knots. Give it a test tug by pulling on both lengths of rope that come from the belay device. At LCC we require the climber to tie in with a Figure 8 Follow Through, a knot which can withstand a great amount of load and yet be untied relatively easily after the climb. Figure 8 is the most popular knot for Rock Climbing, beca In this video we cover how to tie in to a climbing harness using a retraced figure 8 knot! Jun 28, 2018 · While there are several techniques that “belaying” refers to, in general, belaying is the act of exerting tension on a climbing rope to counterbalance the climber when they fall. The primary reasons to use this: Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall. Two-tensioned rope systems solve all problems. Some harnesses require that you feed the rope through certain straps. One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. Follow this step-by-step guide to secure your harness and climb with confidence using trusted climbing rope. Jun 14, 2025 · The setup for lead belay involves using two carabiners: one directly connected to your harness with the rope running through it, and another that serves as an anchor. If you’ve done everything right, it should pull the belayer from the belay loop on the harness. Quick Guide: How to Tie a Munter Hitch Knot To tie a Munter Hitch Knot, make two loops in the middle of a Overhand - Mostly used to tie off other knots Figure Eight on a Bight - Used to create loop in rope Re-woven Figure Eight - Used to tie into harness Ensure 5-8" of tail, enough to tie either an overhand or stopper knot (one side of double fisherman's) Clove Hitch - Useful in belay setups Learning to do this one-handed is useful, although not necessary for the test Munter Hitch (steps 1 - 6 in Nov 2, 2021 · In sport climbing, you will generally begin by feeding the rope through an anchor affixed to the top of a climbing route. Doing this can prevent the loop from rotating and may concentrate wear in a single spot. Learn the Ropes Start your climbing journey by learning the fundamentals of belaying! Our comprehensive top rope belay class teaches you how to put on and check your harness, how to tie into the rope using a figure 8 follow through knot, how to properly set up a belay device, and how to belay using best practices. flatliners southeastclimbing. With this method, the belayer keeps the belay device attached to their harness as if it were a standard top rope belay. There are many types of knots that are commonly used in the pursuit of rock climbing, ice climbing, and general mountaineering, the most popular of which are listed below. All technical rescues and trainings that were conducted Feb 2, 2025 · The Munter Hitch is used for controlled belaying and lowering in rescue scenarios. and a few problems. Every beginner climber should be able to tie the Figure Eight Tie-in Knot in their In the modern day, most climbers use a variety of gear to belay, notably harnesses and belay devices. The 2 hour class includes equipment and a one week trial membership. As long as you're top roping, your rule of thumb is fine but honestly when you start leading you will appreciate having your knot snug up against your harness and out of your way. To tie a Munter Hitch Knot, make two loops in the middle of a rope in opposite directions. If you plan on rope climbing, learn what to expect to pass a belay test. This way, climbers don’t fall very far when they fall. The load is now on the belayer’s harness and the belayer’s hands are both free. Pull both ends to create The Figure eight "8" retrace. That said, other conditions may dictate going off the harness (bad anchor, using yourself as part of an anchor etc The climber ties the rope into their harness with a rewoven figure eight knot. If not, you’ll need to figure out where you went wrong. Why is this cool? Easy to untie after its been loaded, much more so than an overhand knot. Aug 30, 2016 · With that slack, tie a figure eight on a bight and equalize it by adjusting the clove hitches. Learn the best climbing knots for harness and rope safety to stay secure on every climb. This comprehensive guide provides a step-by-step process to ensure safe and effective rope management, allowing climbers to support their partners while minimizing risks. Learn the tricks to make a perfect figure 8, plus how to do it so it's much easier to untie. This article covers an overview of the technique, pros and cons, an FAQ, photos of how to set it up, and print / video resources for further study. The only advantage of figure 8, when used as a belay device, is the ease of threading of the rope during feeding of the rope to the leader while belaying from the harness, or when retrieving the climber with top rope belay, again in a situation where the belayer is on the ground and belay from the harness. Aug 15, 2023 · A girth hitch knot uses a sling to attach an item to a harness. With the krab clipped into your belay loop the friction of rope against rope is enough to slow you on descents and to hold falls. The Figure 8 Follow-through has a variety of advantages over other knots, as it is easy to tie, strong enough to hold the forces generated by a fall, and is relatively easy to untie after it has been loaded by a fall. Feb 23, 2020 · Learn how to girth hitch a sling to your harness and why we prefer using a girth hitch, fed through your harnesses tie-in points. Returning to belay mode Best Used for: Tying into the harness, constructing belays, securing abseil ropes. Girth hitch to your harness (swami belt and belay loop) and tie in the rappel locker with a simple slip knot so it stays in place. It is a useful skill to know, but is not intended for long-term use. Either it’s a dangerous knot banned by gyms that you don’t know how to confidently inspect (and therefore shouldn’t use), or it’s the saving grace that allows you to untie from your harness after whipping on your project. They are prevalent with rock climbers and are very safe when used correctly. As long as your belayer has you tight, you're not tripping on your knot. Adjust your Autoblock so that the brake hand can tend to it. In this video we cover how to tie in to a climbing harness using a retraced figure 8 knot! Apr 7, 2021 · The belay loop on a harness still has so many misunderstandings and misnomers about it in both climbing and rescue cultures. Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay. Understand UIAA standards & gear loops. Aug 7, 2025 · When belaying, safety is your top priority. The rope then passes through some form of climbing protection. This is the most common knot for tying the rope into your harness, and the most frequently used of all climbers’ knots. Jan 26, 2021 · More so, tie-in points on many modern-day harnesses are made with extra reinforcement to prevent the rope nylon from wearing down the nylon on the harness. Aug 15, 2024 · Rock climbing, an exhilarating outdoor adventure, demands a profound understanding of safety practices. They can be life-saving in critical situations and are instrumental in your ascent and descent. Learn multiple ways to rig it, and the pros and cons of each. Jun 2, 2024 · Extending your rappel device away from your harness has a host of benefits . Once the knot is properly tied and dressed, it doesn't matter if you passed the rope through from the top or the bottom, it is purely a matter of preference. Mar 31, 2025 · Generally, you should aim to belay off the anchor as then you can easily lock down the belay in case of an accident and easily descend the rope to assist. In this video, I will teach you how to tie the Figure 8 retrace, how to dress and set this knot, then show you how to properly tie the Figure 8 retrace into a This is a loop of webbing integrated into the front of the harness which is used as an efficient connection point for belaying, rappelling, and attaching to an anchor. Feb 22, 2023 · The retraced figure 8 is probably the most important knot you'll ever tie, so let’s learn the nuances of tying it correctly, every time. Find a school or park playground with a tall slide or structure and try rappelling with a knot above, below and no knot to see what’s different. Figure-8 Knot Usage Whether you’re top-rope belaying or lead belaying, understanding the Much used by continentals for belaying and abseiling, this simple knot is a handy one to know if you accidentally drop your belay plate. Modern Belay Techniques Modern rock climbers, ice/mixed climbers, and mountaineers universally depend on an item of gear called a belay device because they offer a considerable improvement in safety and reliability over these earlier techniques. You can leave your approach shoes on while you belay; there will be time later to change into climbing shoes. The person holding the belay rope, or the belayer, pulls the rope through a belay device as the climber goes up. Before the belayer puts the rope into the belay device they bring in the slack rope until they hear “that's me “ from the climber. You will secure the rope to your harness using a Figure Eight knot and your partner will secure the rope to the belay device on their harness. Aug 7, 2025 · A harness is one of the most basic pieces of climbing gear, but that also makes it one of the most important. classes BELAY CLASS In this class you will learn the fundamentals to climb indoors: fitting the harness, knot tying and proper belay technique. Climbing Knots are for climbers, rescue workers, arborists, tower-climbers, and others who use rope in man-carrying applications. Things to watch out for when tying your figure-eight: Does the rope go through both tie-in points, and not through the belay loop? (like you mentioned in your comment) Is there enough tail, but not Step 1 - Tie off belay device (or Munter Hitch belay) with a Mule knot backed up with an overhand knot. Jun 21, 2023 · Assuming the rope is already anchored to the top, your climber will simply take one end of the rope and tie it to his harness using a double figure 8 knot. It is difficult to use with double ropes, and puts twists in the rope and causes wear, so it is not recommended instead of a Being keen on knowing how to tie rappelling knots, hitches, and bends is essential to having a great time on the mountainside or in the… What is it: A knot for tying climbing slings to various features including: the belay loop of your harness, bolt hangers at anchors, and “threads” of rock, horns/chicken heads on trad routes. We'll cover how to set up your belay device and perform a standard top rope belay. One of the most important safety procedures that one can do before climbing is tying into the rope and anchor system properly. Well, it would I guess, but participation would be pretty low and mortality rate rather high! Knowing how to tie a few basic climbing knots is an essential and lifesaving skill that every climber needs to know regardless of their climbing level. Your harness is an attachment for your climbing rope and belay device. As a result, the attachment of a belay device will have a left or right orientation that should be consistent with the belayer’s dominant hand. Pull both ends to create Aug 23, 2023 · In this illustrated guide, we teach you how to tie a Prusik Knot, explain what situations it's best used in, and cover its advantages and disadvantages. Sep 27, 2025 · Considering rock climbing with a harness? Get our expert guide on safety, types, and proper fit. You will find that almost all of them are very secure. Climb on! Feb 12, 2018 · You want to go climb at an indoor climbing gym but aren't sure what you need to know. Then place a carabiner through both of them. Make sure you practice using this knot a lot on the ground before you ever try to use it on a real belay outdoors, and have an experienced guide check you before putting your newfound knot belay skills to the test. Mountain and Rock Climbing Knots Rock climbing, rappelling and mountaineering require you to have a sound knowledge of basic climbing knots since you need to work with ropes extensively. 100% perfect and easy to untie. The knot Apr 28, 2025 · Belaying a climber on toprope—where the rope runs from the belay device up through an anchor at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness—is as straightforward as it gets. g. Feb 9, 2020 · Which knot is best for sport climbing, traditional climbing, building a belay of traditional gear, or simply for tethering yourself into a safety point? Here at The Adventure Junkies, we try to take the complicated, and make it easy for you to understand. The Figure 8 Follow-through has a variety of advantages What is it: A knot for tying climbing slings to various features including: the belay loop of your harness, bolt hangers at anchors, and “threads” of rock, horns/chicken heads on trad routes. But before learning about each method, let’s Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. The Figure 8 Knot is the most common knot for tying the rope into your harness. In this article, we will explore some of the key knots used in mountaineering and climbing, categorized into five groups: knots for anchorages at belay stations, knots for tying into the harness, knots for securing the climber, knots for joining ropes and cords, and ascending Simple Belaying Techniques: This is a brief step-by-step guide to belaying with an ATC device in an indoor climbing environment! Some of the knots used in climbing are similar to boating knots. You can also tie a follow through figure eight on a bite and attach it to your belay loop with two opposite and opposing carabiners. To learn more, see our videos on Climbing Knots. This belay device Before you get your top-rope belay certification, make sure you know these 10 essential things to ensure a safe and successful climbing experience. Feb 9, 2024 · Common practice in many parts of Europe, belaying a leader directly from an anchor rather than your harness is a new idea for many Americans. When the brake end of the rope is held in the correct position, the hitch provides sufficient friction to lower a climber or to rappel. Using the belay loop itself is not a safety problem, the knot just sits a bit higher and you could get a bruise if you take a lead fall and the knot hits your upper body hard enough. Understanding climbing knots also highlights the intricate relationship between rope work and climbing safety. If you want to belay with figure 8 you need to know how to use it. If you end up needing to use the friction knot and it is above the belay device it can be very hard to unweight/release the knot and start defending again. Oct 12, 2025 · This knot passing remains the same on top rope lowers, except all of these locking carabiners will be on your belay loop instead of on the anchor. . Begin by closing the system with a stopper knot at the end of the rope, preventing it from slipping entirely through the belay device and causing the climber to drop. Don’t rush this step, please. Aug 7, 2025 · In order to belay safely, learn how to setup your belay device and practice the PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) system. You can belay either from your belay loop or from your rope loop. Aug 20, 2023 · A Munter Hitch Knot creates friction between a rope and a carabiner. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. It is likely your belay device will already be attached if someone else set the top-rope route beforehand, but if not, as the belayer, take a bight from the other end of the rope and insert it into the belay device. The Figure 8 Follow-through has a variety of advantages over other knots, as it is easy to tie, strong enough to hold the forces generated by a fall, and Jun 29, 2016 · Most harnesses have two “hard points” that you feed the rope through to tie your knot, while others have one (like the FA rental harnesses). Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. Just sit back and enjoy the definitive guide on how to belay. Jul 31, 2011 · He also carries a tape harness, a carabiner and 20m of 6mm rope when doing off-track or exploratory bushwalking trips to provide an emergency abseil / top belay option. Tying into a harness with a figure 8 follow through knot is one of the first skills every climber must learn. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. Feb 25, 2015 · Untie the first overhand backup and mule knot from the belay setup on the harness, and slowly transfer the load to the tie-off loop using the belay device. Oct 28, 2025 · One of the most important safety procedures that one can do before climbing is tying into the rope and anchor system properly. All you need for the munter hitch is a locking carabiner and your rope. There's more to it than what’s usually taught in books and by many instructors. Learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the PBUS method and how to lower a climber. Nov 16, 2016 · Don’t forget to double-check your belay setup and the climber’s knot and harness. Because it's tied in a loop and does not cinch down like a girth hitch, it's fine to use this on Mar 15, 2022 · Learn how to tie a figure 8 knot for safe climbing. Before you start, always double-check that your belay device is set up correctly and all knots and harnesses are secure. It depends on the situation, but I will typically put my ATC on a sling attached to the hard points of my harness, and then use a Klemheist knot attached to my belay loop. Its most common use is belaying, rappelling, and abseiling without a belaying device. The knot is tied around a locking HMS carabiner, which might be clipped to your belay loop or some other regular belay anchor. rhzuhicf gfl wqjdbuiy ryrr yk6jz3 qgdv 9zo4e drhm8 0kx6 by7t