Weak 3 finger drag vs half crimp. 3 finger drag form is much different than half crimp form.
Weak 3 finger drag vs half crimp I call it "semi open-hand" because my middle and pointer finger go into a slight half crimp when I put my pinky finger on. Because of the different lenght of my fingers my middle and ring fingers are about 90 degree in this position. I'm like you Haydn (although a lot weaker) I'm my strongest full crimped and can get nowhere open handing or half crimping. Feb 2, 2025 · This is also why full crimp injuries are more common than half crimp injuries. I usually use a 30mm edge for the whole thing. I can do a one arm hang on 18mm for 8 seconds. Moving my pinky up onto the crimp seems to inevitably move me into a half crimp finger position. Nov 9, 2021 · For example, I can only truly open hand a 3-finger drag. com/finger-tool🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www. In dieser Variante des Half Crimps nutzt du nur drei Finger, Zeige-, Mittel- und Ringfinger. We tested unilateral, maximal isometric peak finger strength in the front 3 drag, half crimp, closed crimp, 35 sloper, 45 × 90-mm, and 90 × 90-mm pinch through maximal force deloaded of a force Moved Permanently. Methods: We recruited participants at climbing gyms in Sweden and through online advertisements. Higher risk than drag positions. e. 55 votes, 31 comments. 8 sets of 7:3 repeaters x 4 reps, 2 min rest between each set. ) based on goals and weaknesses. Board climbing is like max hangboarding. The half crimp can be trained using almost any grip strength training method – hangboarding, edge lifting, board training or bouldering – although you will choose an May 1, 2024 · Open-Hand Crimp: (AKA “3-finger drag”) The open-hand crimp is used on slightly easier terrain when you want to conserve energy. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. Hang from pull-up bar, just get a good stretch in 3 finger drag no hangs, ~ 40% weighted 4 finger half crimp no hang, ~40% weighted 3 finger drag no hang, ~75% weighted 4 finger crimp no hang, ~75% weighted Feb 1, 2024 · Objective: To determine the criterion validity and test–retest reliability of isometric finger-strength testing in 6 differentiated grip techniques for the assessment of bouldering ability among male climbers. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut mistakes for finger boarding? 類類類 Having worked with thousands of climbers with their training plans and also having observed the "fingerboard revolution" during the last 10 years, we've noticed Posted by u/cheeseboot - 33 votes and 23 comments ☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www. true. Hello, One year ago , I could not full-crimp at all and used half-crimp for everything. I'm training on a 19 mm edge. Relax, allowing your fingers to gently rest on the hold again. :) Good to train multiple grip types, as others said - start easy with a new grip type and build it up, in particular moving from open to half crimp as you start to load your pulleys more. Wrist engagement is the secret sauce. especially when advice is often to be careful/appreciate the risk of full crimping, and don't go around full crimping everything, and be mindful and intentful I have been climbing for close to two years (3 times a week for one year) and have always just used open hand on crimps. If I am doing max hangs on an 18mm+ edge I tend to fall from a strict half crimp into a four finger drag when I tire or if the weight is near my limit. Meistens genügt der Half Crimp, um in den nächsten Zug zu kommen. You will injure yourself eventually guaranteed. I understand training it will probably make me a more well-rounded climber strength-wise, but does anyone have evidence (quantitative or anecdotal) of the benefit of training 3-finger I almost mentioned 3 finger drag, but figured it would complicate matters for OP/discussion. If a hold is larger or incut I will almost always use 3 finger open. Even more complicated is I have come across some discussion (via some of the Lattice folks) about training front/back 3 (in half crimp I believe) translating well to pockets of the 1 and 2 finger variety. Nov 10, 2024 · You've identified that you are already strong in the 3 finger drag and weaker at crimping. My open hand. Jul 13, 2021 · So, when training on a hangboard, you’ll usually start by holding a static position, the “dead hang”, with different hand positions like full-crimp, half-crimp and open hand. The grip style makes a huge difference on a hangboard. Full crimp. Seems to be the grip many use for campusing. Start at the bottom and train up any grip type that will help fulfill your larger goal. Basically my "half crimp" is first two fingers very strict half crimp, ring finger appears very slightly open when I start but I think it probably gets hyper extended as well when I weight it, the pinky is open. Mild pain while loading in the half or full crimp position. Sep 27, 2024 · The half crimp grip has the most applications in climbing. This is due to me using half crimps all the time and rarely using 3 finger drag while climbing unless Getting your pinky on a hold forces your other fingers to bend more, so a 4 finger open hand is better described as an open crimp, somewhere in between a true open hand and a half crimp. Building the robustness of the structures in our hand that the full crimp stresses takes patience, consistency, and time. I’m stronger at 1/2 crimp than open hand (chisel) grip. I have been working on growing my open-hand finger strength but I have mostly been using a 4 finger semi-open hand grip. Only mild pain with resisted flexion at the DIP joint. When it comes to fingerboard training for climbing, there are many tools and methods at our disposal! If anyone has watched our channels over the years or fo Moved Permanently. It's likely you're just weak in the 3 finger drag position because you've never trained it or you don't use it when climbing a ton (insert u/justcrimp rant here lol). Usually this is a slightly lower risk grip position to train. I train open crimp and 3 a lot more than full crimping lately, but it's been specific to my goal problems. I usually end up doing mostly 29mm for front and 15mm for back 3! This makes more sense to me than calling 3 an aggressive half crimp or something, because it's the hyperextension that creates the stress on the pulleys and thus risk for finger injury. This is the answer to your question: Time spent hanging open hand drag - 5 years, time spent hanging half crimp 4 finger - 0 years. . Your little finger will hang off the hold while your index, middle, and ring fingers grab the hold. Aug 25, 2019 · Finger rolls have proved to be the most effective thing for improving my PIP swelling/pain, probably because they’re non-aggravating (hard half crimp and full crimp aggravate mine the most) and they’re good at remodeling the tissue with the open finger type of movement. Quickly load your fingers, generating as much force as you can. 10 seconds on 19 mm is Dec 14, 2016 · Probably similar disparity to what you listed. Some positions feel better for either hold. Similarly, most people are stronger in one over the other (half vs open/drag). See full list on climbing. Like a lot of people, my half crimp is stronger than my 3 finger drag. Repeat, 3-5 times. I recently started training 3 finger drag after I noticed it was significantly weaker. Don't only train one grip for more than one cycle (4-12 week) De-load (perform %50 or less work) for a week every 4-8 weeks. That said, I noticed that I never really used a proper drag grip when I'm actually climbing; only half crimp and open crimp. For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www. My half crimp is strong. The Real Housewives of Atlanta The Bachelor Sister Wives 90 Day Fiance Wife Swap The Amazing Race Australia Married at First Sight The Real Housewives of Dallas My 600-lb Life Last Week Tonight with John Oliver I was half crimping 110lbs when I realized I could only 3 finger drag my bodyweight for the same amount of time. Question: What are the pros/cons of training a "true" half crimp? Safer? Stronger? I'm doing 3-finger drag no hangs now. I mean I can 3finger drag more weight than my half crimp but if you put me on a real 10mm edge outside I couldn’t 3fd nearly as well as half crimping, simply because most often you can’t get your body weight underneath it/in line AND because an incut edge often is much nicer if you rotate your tips down to dig into it. *Disclaimer: I only train half crimp max hangs; open was my original strength for the first 3 years, followed by full crimp-- half crimp has always been my weakest position. I only hangboard at 1/2 crimp. It is now almost caught up. Full crimp So for a good couple years I've just been training half crimp and 'open hand', however I've been doing 3 finger drag as my open hand. That's good to know. Apparently north east climbing favors 3 finger open or full crimping and I actively avoided full crimping so the half crimp got left behind. When using a closed grip (half crimp/full crimp), y It seems like your open hand position (3 finger drag but also 4 finger open) is super weak and you are way more often using a near maximal force to stay on which gets you pumped quicker. 3. I can do 7 seconds of bodyweight on 7mm. com/In this video, we are going Jul 26, 2021 · Moderate pain while loading in the half or full crimp position. Typically this means using a hangboard 1-2x/week with a slow and steady progression. ouch. Die Hand liegt dabei offen an der Leiste an und die Sehnen sind nicht aufgestellt. Back three is super ergonomic for me, whereas front 3 feels almost impossibly unergonomic on any edge size. A Lumbrical Injury will have: In that case, 3 finger drag is probably a great candidate (and then front three/back three in half crimp). I'm wondering if some of the stronger climbers here have a stronger open hand/three finger drag max hang numbers over half crimp. Dec 24, 2012 · Yeah i know what you mean, and CWP agrees with you. If possible, the thumb rests next to the index finger or onto the hold. I can do 150% bodyweight on 18mm for 10 seconds. Hanging 4mm in any grip typ is super stong, no wonder that you rather crimp pinches etc. When I fingerboard I end up half crimping with the front 3 and the pinky in drag, if I try all 4 fingers in half crimp my wrist is at a weird angle. com/ I keep forgetting this because I think that my strongest grip is probably a 4 finger drag which is somewhere between an open 3 and half crimp. Three-Finger-Drag. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. com Nov 9, 2022 · Half crimp: This is best ‘all rounder’ for training strength as it is arguably more transferrable than other positions. In all seriousness in my case when I say drag I'm talking about the 3 finger drag specifically, and when I say open-hand positions I'm normally talking about all grip types except half and full-crimp (3 finger drag, "quarter" crimp, holding slopers, pockets etc) For a long time I thought that a "semi-crimp" (i. My 4-finger drag is very close to a half crimp, with the pinkie straight and all other three fingers bent and that tends to be my default goto hand position. Weirdly I find I can use all 4 fingers in half crimp when doing my one arm hangs, I think the angle your body is at works better. To perform a half crimp, a climber’s index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle while the pinkie is straight (simply because it is shorter). Jan 5, 2025 · I don't think this vital topic has been covered sufficiently :blink: Comparing notes with Probes earlier this week I can deadhang (2 arms natch) a small edge for 12 secs by dragging/open handing but can only half-crimp it for 4 secs whereas Probes reckoned it would be the other way round for 4 finger open =/= 4 finger drag (4finger drag beeing 3 finger drag + pinky in drag position) 4 finger open is for me having 4 fingers on with my Index finger beeing open (not 90 degree). I think this increased focus on half-crimping really helped with my upper end bouldering and I plan to continue to focus on half-crimping more this year. Bending my pinky would turn this to a half crimp. So I view it as an entirely different form of training, not pushing numbers and trying hard, but just learning and ingraining what it feels like to my hand and arm to hold that position. In both the half crimp grip and full crimp grip, your index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky grip the rock surface, and your fingers lock at the second joint. Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag: ~25lbs -"true" half crimp: less than 20 lbs. Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints. The document has moved here. For beginners, it is recommended to do 2-3 sessions a week and do 10 sets of five hangs on a variety of holds with an open hand position. Rest for 3-5 minutes between My three finger drag is my weakest grip by far (about 16kg weaker than my half-crimp on max hangs), but adding it into my training repertoire has helped quite a bit with deadpoints, especially on the Moonboard. The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. My numbers are dramatically different (my open is almost double in weight from my half) and I'm concerned that there's such a dramatic difference between the two. I've always assumed three finger drag was open and have never really thought about an open crimp with four fingers. Where your pinky is on and half your fingers are in a half-crimp) was what people meant by an "open-handed grip" and that the 3 finger drag was a dangerous grip type that you only really used on slopers or that you fell into when your hand was failing (still not sure if the 3f drag is actually Sep 11, 2023 · Im Half Crimp bist du zudem weniger verletzungsanfällig als im Full Crimp. Oct 31, 2019 · I'm wondering what is the typical expected strength ratio between full crimp, half crimp, chisel, and 3-finger drag? You get strong at what you train. When to Use Half crimp vs. I think it will stay this way for a while, even if I only train 3 finger drag on a hangboard. Many moves can be climbed just as efficiently with an open-hand grip, and it’s prudent to put an equal amount of effort into training both half crimp and 3-finger drag. Now I can 3 finger drag ~45 added pounds. If you do a 3 finger drag, it's possible to have completely straight PIP joints on at least 2 of the fingers. Oct 29, 2020 · For climbing, this means building up our strength and resilience to the full crimp position in a methodical and controlled manner. Hannah Toward (9 years old at the time) relies on the 3-finger drag whilst climbing Free and Even Easier 7a+ at Malham. Front 3 drag: Good for catching holds and using pockets. I would assume it happened over the span of 11 years. I started focusing more on half crimp training last year and have closed the gap some, but my open hand hangs are still a bit stronger. Quite a bit weaker (relative to most) when pinky comes off-- in drag, crimp, whatever. Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. If you want more power on steep terrain, it’s not just about finger strength — it’s how you use your grip. Mar 16, 2005 · From what i've gathered it's basicly 4 fingers on, index is dragging, middle finger is half crimping, ring finger is sort of half crimping, pinky is dragging. Just train half crimp, 3 finger drag (you actually don’t have to crimp at all, Dave Macleod uses 3 finger drag as his main grip for example and he climbs really hard), or both. The 3 finger drag is the open hand hang I'm referring too, there is no way my pinky would even get close to the edge while doing this Oct 15, 2021 · The half crimp position and full crimp position are nearly identical with one key difference. I'd have thought that prioritising the weakness would be most likely to see gains in your climbing. Hey Ya'll, I've been thinking about hand shapes recently, especially when talking with people about whether they prefer an open or half crimp… If I keep my fingers in the open crimp position (ie, PIP joint of the index finger is straight), my pinky is not long enough to reach the crimp, turning my "open crimp" into a 3-finger drag. Dec 9, 2019 · I have similar short pinky issues. Based on the principle that grip strength doesn't transfer well over joint angles, i feel like if you really want to minimalize things, 4 finger half crimp could be the steak n' potatoes, but you should also have a small but healthy side of dragging -- either front 2 + back 2 or something else depending on your hand. Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. We included climbers over 15 years of age with a minimum bouldering performance level LOVES fully closed, fully cranked crimp. Full crimp can be used of course, but definitely don’t use it as your main grip type. Not only do you lose a whole entire finger, but a crimp offers a lot of mechanical advantage. Maybe that's why I crimp everything so hard. This feels slightly uncomfortable sometimes. I used to hang +50 lbs open hand but could barely do bodyweight half crimp. Pinky is dragged. Interestingly, I am waaaay stronger at back 3 than front 3. It consists of 4 finger half crimp, front 3 half crimp, back 3 half crimp, 3 finger drag/open. Feels safer and more stable and less injury prone than half crimp! Much stronger back 3 than front 3 (half and full crimp). I recently tested my finger strength on micro edge and was surprised to be able to hold the lattice 6mm edge in full crimp for 3-5 sec. This hold isn’t as active as a half-crimp and relies more on friction and tension than your pulley muscles. A FDS Injury will have: The most pain with resisted flexion at the PIP joint regardless of whether with 1 or 3 fingers. Mar 27, 2019 · Junior climbers are prone to over-using the 3-finger drag on edges because they feel weak at half-crimping and hence a key coaching tip is to encourage them to use their little finger and maintain a half-crimp. 3 finger drag form is much different than half crimp form. All hangs should be done in a variety of grip positions (half crimp, 3 finger drag, good slopers, bad slopers) etc. This should last for only 2-3 seconds. hoopersbeta. My pinkies are too short to actually grip when I'm doing open hand so it's technically 3 finger drag I guess. Jan 10, 2022 · Gentle rest your fingers on the hold and position them close to the form you will use (3 finger drag vs half crimp, for example). lrqlfppradtmyfckxknjsynswursdgwrckohhsulrftpabli