Rope behind leg lead climbing accident reddit. She’s in the ER and we are waiting for word.
Rope behind leg lead climbing accident reddit One of my coworkers was climbing top rope at a gym in Europe and was belayed by an incompetent belayer. Try to stay as square as possible so your legs can absorb the impact, and it's generally wise to avoid grabbing the rope. And if you have a question about any of those things, grab a climber (me or anyone else would be happy to teach you, we are a friendly community) and learn. Aug 23, 2022 · Here are the basic things you need to know about lead climbing: 1. Learn to place gear and clip it quickly and efficiently. , to set up the top anchor, learn how to fall (look down and see where you're going, drop away, arms and legs bent to absorb the landing against the rock). When you jump off, it will lower you back down at a safe speed. That said, compared to a Grigri it's easier to misuse it while lead belaying and I never lend mine to people who belay me. Most people are not going to be projecting on lead when they first start, and all that is really needed to start is knowing how to clip and not having the rope behind your leg. I'm guilty of not placing enough slings on trad routes and having horrible rope drag. By the time you've worn out your first rope you'll know what you want your second rope to do. Oct 22, 2024 · Notice how the rope (not the haul line) is running behind the climber’s left leg? Rope management when you’re climbing in cracks can be especially tricky, but if the climber fell from this position they’d risk a pretty gnarly upside-downer…. Never have a rope behind your leg! Watch how not to have the rope below. Learn different clipping methods, practice clipping on the ground. Taught me how to lead! Worst accident I ever saw was someone who twisted or sprained their knee. I’m with her cousin right now. All the other nuances of sport climbing (boinking, etc. I don’t think you should try to engineer falls with poor rope replacement. When you take a fall with the rope behind your leg or caught on your heel, you can become flipped upside down as you fall. EDIT: As a side note, a 5ft free fall usually isn't an issue at the top if you used a properly certified climbing rope (dynamic, not static!). Rope behind your leg while leading. Things work differently with a partner, which is how the majority of climbing is done, but the same principles apply except the partner will often feed rope to the lead climber from different stages, before swapping roles for the lead to control their descent (except somewhat inverted). He is climbing, falls accidentally above the second clip (you are supposed to fall on purpose above the 4th). My worst climbing injury was roped. I even tried to open my legs quick but it all happened very fast. Obviously you have to lower off in two goes if you do that- your partner lowers you to the anchor at the top of pitch 1, you go in direct to it, your partner takes you off belay, you pull the rope down, thread it through the anchor you’re attached to, your partner puts you back on belay and lowers Honestly, static ropes are not very useful in free rock climbing (mostly for rappelling, fixed lines in aid climbing, etc. I’ve been climbing for almost 2 years. You won't be discerning enough to tell the difference between it and a tip top Petzl 8mm. Learn to clip with both hands in a variety of scenarios. As you’re climbing, stay aware of how the rope is running; your belayer should help by alerting you if you’re climbing with the rope behind your leg. 5 isn't better than 9. 2 and thinner, ropes will last just as long used as a personal rope of a climbing guide, but the weekend warrior that isn't taking as specific care of them will find that it's going to get worn and soft and fuzzy much faster. If everyone tied knots in the ends of their ropes and used proper verbal commands, my gut tells me that a large number of all climbing accidents would vanish overnight. the static and dynamic elongation percentages are the based on how the rope is loaded (static means load applied when rope is already stretched out like a toprope fall What is that one thing that happened that you immediatly think of when someone asks have you ever fallen or had an accident when climbing. When on lead you must be careful to avoid stepping in front of the rope, in a fall the rope around your leg causes you to rotate upside down with your head swinging toward the rock. If you fall in this position, you’ll likely be flipped upside down. Just goes to show that sport climbing and alpine climbing are wildly different beasts. The home of Climbing on reddit. It takes a second longer in some instances, but you never need to put yourself in a position where a fall would flip you. Because of the way your rope is set up, you can fall anywhere from 5 to 30 feet when lead climbing, depending on your clipping position and how tight the rope is. just go on the easiest route around and start climbing and don't forget to clip your rope. Cycling is also great at improving your VO2 max which will help out greatly when climbing. Hooking the rope with a leg could cause you to tumble resulting in nasty rope burns, unwanted forces on yout body or smashing head first into the wall. Pretty clean overall, but it looks like you stuck just your one leg out to brace for impact, and it's hard to say for sure, but this, coupled with your hands grabbing the rope, might be why your body rotated so much. Sure, the same fundamental factors are at play—rope, carabiner, gravity—wheels, pedals Mar 1, 2021 · If your foot is on hold between the rope and the wall and you took a fall, it’s highly likely that your foot would get caught causing you to flip upside down. You should keep doing normal fall training and lead climbing easy routes with your primary focus on rope management (where it is in relation to your legs/feet), until rope management becomes second nature. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Transition to Top Rope / Lead Climbing. don't think too much, just do it. Jul 11, 2023 · Z-clipping isn’t the only mistake you should avoid while lead climbing. It's not the biggest deal but part of climbing is learning situational awareness and looking at your feet and surroundings to see what else is going on. The difference between lead climbing and toproping. ) just stop seeing lead climbing as this mythical thing. Below are two more common mistakes that budding lead climbers make that can lead to injury. But when I'm moving left/right from my last clip, I always make sure the rope is on my knee. And the amount it will stretch will depend on how much you weight and the factor of falling. The rope had managed to get stuck on the sharp edge of a hold (we think), and had been nearly cut completely. Had to be airlifted out and she made a full recovery. For a beginner I would recommend getting the cheapest rope that's climbing rated you can find. Anytime you traverse, go out an overhang, or do a step-through move, you’re in danger of putting your leg on the “uphill” side of your rope. Sounds as if your leg or foot was behind the rope at the previous bolt. You can avoid this by stepping around or away from the rope when you move around on a route. All it takes is one lapse for tragedy to occur. dont let the rope go behind your leg call "clipping" when you go to clip to let the belayer know your intention clip from a comfortable position, try to do it where the bolt is easily within reach not way over your head or down by your feet In your particular case, textbook behavior at the top is to hang on until you feel the rope tension, then you slowly sit and increase weight until you finally let go. 4 alpine routes. Urgent prayer request: A friend was in a climbing accident. I’ve landed very wrong not bouldering and really hurt myself. It definitely looks fun and most people climbing boulders are beast, i just can’t bring myself to do it. Dangers of Lead Climbing. There are several resources out there, and I cannot remember or list them all, except the one I am most familiar with (family ties and all) which is the Rock Warrior's Way The biggest benefit to strengthening your upper and lower leg muscles is so that you reduce the amount strain put on your ligaments such as you ACL/MCL. A couple was lead testing, the guy is probably a good 50% heaver then the girl. Its bad because if you fall in this position you will get flipped upside down and impact the wall with your back/head. Lead climbing moreso. Aug 18, 2022 · The elements of this story are so famous they scarcely need retelling, yet they remain astonishing: Joe Simpson breaks his leg in a fall while descending 20,814-foot Siula Grande after a new route on the west face; his partner, Simon Yates, lowers him about 2,500 feet before the knot joining their two ropes jams in Yates’ belay device Tieing into both points you get the benefit of the leg loops, the comfort of distributing the load between the waist belt and the leg loops and you shouldn't flip (obviously accepting clipping anything on the way down or having the rope behind a leg). When most climbers fall while lead climbing the belayer safely arrests the fall, and everything is okay. To fix the problem, step over and around the rope, not behind it and be aware of your foot to rope relation. He completely froze for 30 seconds before finally coming off the wall. In 17 years of climbing there were a dozen of accidents in my circle. This happens when your line of climbing crosses over the protection below or when you’re climbing a vertical crack and your feet are jamming in front of your rope. A "dynamic catch" would slightly reduce the speed with which the climber will flip over backwards, but he'll still flip over backwards while swinging back towards the face. Rope behind your leg while leading Anytime you traverse, go out an overhang, or do a step-through move, you’re in danger of putting your leg on the “uphill” side of your rope. When you step in front of the rope or when the rope gets caught behind your leg, you become exposed to a dangerous fall potential. Serious head injuries can result. As your legs move over the below protection, be sure to manage your rope so it’s always in front of your I don't have the most experience in outside lead climbing. If you're still afraid to lead climb after meeting all 3 of those criteria, it's not for you. Falling on low angle rambly ice is extremely bad. It’s just a illustration on how much you would fall doing lead climbing (means the rope is behind you). Crampons will catch and something in your lower body will break, or possible get pierced. But the risks are easily mitigated by utilizing good form, proper planning, and well-selected and -maintained gear. Surprised to see anchor failure be the most common top rope cause of accidents, with belay failure way lower down. Keep it in front of your legs and feet, or between them, especially near the start of a route, when pulling past an overhang FYI: Usually when you see these stories, the answer is actually insurance. 6. Not sure why this was downvoted - sport climbing and alpine climbing/solo-ing are not the same and just because you're a strong sport climber doesn't mean you can or should solo 5. Second gripe would be that they don't Jun 20, 2023 · The majority of climbing accidents are user-generated: rappelling off the end of your rope, taking people off belay when they shouldn’t be, or just plain bad belaying. Dunno how it works in the UK, but in the US, if saykid gets hurt when he falls down the stairs at grandma's house, but grandma's insurance isn't willing to pay up (or won't pay an amount the family thinks is fair), you could end up with a lawsuit filed in court as "Kid vs Grandma". Every company measures their ropes Sport climbing is not rocket science. 619 votes, 549 comments. Don't stress about the diameter. She’s in the ER and we are waiting for word. 64 votes, 20 comments. I'd highly recommend having a very experienced belayer paired with a lead climber because a small thing like "leg behind the rope" can be deadly. The rope is under tension and constantly wants to go up, so it will follow you as you climb. 1. Even one good lead fall on a QL not screwed shut is enough to bend it significantly. It’s only marginally ridiculous to declare that toproping is to lead climbing as plastic tricycles are to carbon fiber racing bikes. The only time I've seen it in person -- I was belaying and my climber did this weird splits move about two feet above his last bolt, with the rope behind his foot. (Edit: if it was trad leading, I'd say take a course. Mar 27, 2013 · That can give you nasty rope burn or even flip you upside down. it means to place your leg such that the rope runs behind it when leading. Learns where long slings are needed and what placement will cause drag in general. 9 of them were atc related and the other were poorly tied knot, bad gear placement and ice climbing related. I'm usually careful about not letting the rope get behind my leg but I was at the crux of a 5. Cheers, still climbing too! We each climbed a 50m two-pitch route in one pitch on a 70m rope. Got tired pushed off wall to only realize I only tied into the lead rope which no one was tied into. Broken hands on bad landings, torn pulleys because of pulling too hard, twisted ankles The staff had watched the CCTV and told me that as I slipped my leg got caught on the lead rope which inverted me. Most of the climbers I know which boulder regularly have gotten an injury or more from bouldering, while it's quite exceptional to get hurt while rope climbing. That was the first time I’ve fallen like that. 10b and had already taken 2 falls trying to figure it out. Feb 9, 2024 · Rope Behind the Leg. I've never used an auto belay, but I'd imagine your just clipping into a locking 'biner on the end of the rope. You can see the rope leading up to it right at hip level. 12 you already know this. Rope management, how to flake out, coil, where to keep the rope, etc. Posted by u/TheOregonDisorder - 7 votes and 20 comments I use a Trango Vergo as a backup. Again, it's so they don't have to teach climbing in the lead class, and for effective learning. This only happens when the rope is behind your leg, but you can always move your foot behind the rope so it's on the outside of your leg. As far as information you need to know to lead climb, concerning ATCs - You really only need the ATC to lead climb if you are belaying a leader, or if you plan on setting up a rappel at the top of your route and cleaning it on the abseil. This was his first time outdoors and his belayer did not double check to make sure the rope was passing through the proper weight bearing loops of the harness. Learn how to clip on both hands, to not get the rope behind your legs or z-clipped, backclipped, etc. Learn about backclips, z-clips, avoiding leg behind the rope. Bent, nearly broken Quicklink on lead draw- We do weekly safety checks on all our draws, but somehow a quicklink had come unscrewed. Do EVERYTHING. Knot the rope and use an Autobloc when you rappel. Back-stepped the rope and then promptly fell, getting caught by the rope wrapped around my ankle. Feb 24, 2022 · Sport Climbing Mistakes 6. New leaders and belayers not understanding the reality of decking between first and 3rd bolts or pieces of pro. My story: Climbing inside practicing clips for lead while on auto belay while listening to music. And I could tell that he was not able to think about things we were supposed to be learning (clipping properly, leg behind rope etc). If they are showing you these types of stats on manufacturer's website, its likely a dynamic rope. I saw a lead test go wrong that was quite funny a month or so ago. 10d where I got careless. No need to switch devices for lowering. " There's little a belayer can do when the climber fucks up like that. Overall no helmet was a significant portion of all climbing accidents, nearly as much as rap errors. • Establish rope management (making sure you don't allow it behind your leg, don't back clip or z clip, etc. Take controlled lead falls with instructor belaying. Lead belay should have a minimal standard, though. grabbing the rope with your hands above your knot is okay, but grabbing it too far away from your tie-in point out of fear can also result in serious burns. New leaders getting ropes behind their leg. And yes we are scared of falling. As you approach 9. Putting the 'biner through both the leg loop and the waist loop would tri-load the 'biner, and placing it only through the waist loop could risk a back injury. I should add that the guy in the video didn't exactly backstep, but caught the rope behind his heel when his foot slipped, but the result is the same. My head hit the ground, but the rope must've have taken alot of my weight already since I've gotten away without any serious injury, just a headache and neck pain and some missing hair. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. . ) can be learned on the go. It's basically a Grigri but the rope runs through it in a straight way when unlocked, so it feeds a bit better (didn't compare to a proper ascender). Apr 17, 2018 · If you’re lead climbing, the rope should never slip behind your leg. Anything else is asking for a jump. So that was me in the video. Falling with the Rope Behind Your Leg. Don’t know how bad it is, but from what we gather, she was at the very top (right at the ceiling) when she fell, and something happened and basically the rope wasn’t secure or it broke, and free fell to the bottom Rope stretcher top rope falls can be in the same category. If you're climbing 5. On a solo climb/descent, yes. At a climbing gym like this, you would be clipped into an auto belay. I've been unlucky enough to get my leg caught in the rope. 9. My left foot popped and all my weight fell to the left and my foot swooped right and under the rope and my last draw. My climbing partner and I witnessed a kid at Castle Rock fall about 20-25 feet after looping his figure 8 through the stretchy part of the harness right below the leg loop. I had no idea that I could do a 1 armed pullup while simultaneously disentangling my leg, but adrenaline is a hell of a drug. (Photo: Kiff Alcocer) Part 1. I shouted a few times at him that the rope was behind his leg, but he didn't move. Then nut up and climb. Mock lead on top rope while clipping in. So, what are some of the dangers of lead climbing? Most of them, obviously, have to do with what happens when you fall. the rope tightens when it catches you Posted by u/Sufficient-Bug-9112 - 3,108 votes and 582 comments Honestly the reason I’m scared to try bouldering, been doing the auto belay and hoping to get into top rope then lead. Usually this issue comes up when flagging , backstepping, or on traversing routes. Sure the classic atc has it's benefits when multi pitching, but safety is not one of them. Lead climbing at the gym, stupid and easy 5. One, I push the rope a bit higher when I move that leg up, so I can grab it easier for clipping, and two, it never ends up behind my leg. Finally, climbing in general is dangerous. She was dropped from the top, broke her spine, legs, and injured several other body parts. My only gripe on the video is that belaying is also making sure your climber doesn't do something stupid (leg behind the rope, backclipping the draws, etc). In trad nearly half of all accidents were gear failure. A large number of serious lead climbing accidents happen when the leader falls, gets her foot caught in the rope causing them to flip over and slam their head into the wall experienced climber will often jump off and take a clean fall rather then get their leg tangled in the rope and risk a disastrous one. That's a lot of words for "he fell with the rope behind his leg. ). There was a guy in my lead class who was struggling with the climbing itself. Don't even think about climbing outside until you do. EVERYTIME. it's okay to have some healthy respect but fear will only hinder you. Don’t get tangled up in the first place. A dynamic rope typically stretches between 10-30% at a factor 2 fall (means have fell twice as much as the length of rope between you and the belayer). vggkkyzlpzjiwynlssickhbqzfhqfyiiawesbjimbgtdzecquxao